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Zamalek Island: a haven of peace in the heart of Cairo
The throbbing, cosmopolitan metropolis of Egypt, bristling with minarets and domes, with its neighbourhoods spreading out into the desert from the banks of the Nile, is fascinating. Far from the anarchy and din of car horns is the Zamalek area. The protagonist of Percy Kemp’s novel Le Muezzin de Kit Kat described it as “an island insulated from the boiling pressure cooker surrounding it on all sides – an island still protected by the god of the Nile, more or less.” Zamalek is a true haven of peace, with its nineteenth-century villas giving an idea of the past grandeur of the city. Nowadays it is home to numerous cafés, galleries, bars, and restaurants. Discover our picks for the trendiest spots in Zamalek.
For books: El Diwan bookstore
Relax with a coffee and a book or magazine in this bookstore, which sells a wide selection of Arab music and literature in English and French. The café is open, and buzzing, until 11:30 at night. If you haven’t already, check out Alaa al-Aswani’s famous novel The Yacoubian Building. Egyptian literature buffs take note!
159, rue du 26 Juillet
For coffee: Cilantro
This stylish cafés is one of the favourites of Egyptian architect and designer Cherif Morsi, who loves the breakfasts. A great place to relax with friends around one of the fifteen varieties of coffee and a wide choice of sandwiches and pastries. Other Cilantro outlets are located near the American University, in Maadi, and in Heliopolis.
157, rue du 26 Juillet
For a meal: Sequoia
On the northern tip of Zamalek, this open-air restaurant is the perfect spot for mezzés and grilled meats. Enjoy the marvellous view of the skyscrapers on both banks of the Nile. The decoration is very zen: desert-themed with large fans and a broad, elegant Bedouin tent that keeps off the sun and heat. It’s also the spot to smoke a hookah in the open air, with more than 30 kinds of flavoured tobacco available. The ambiance is chic but relaxed, and the music is eclectic. Contemporary art is frequently shown. Book ahead, as it’s a favourite with Cairenes.
Sharia Abul Feda
For a drink: La Bodega
Located on the second floor of a restored building, this bar is a favourite with locals and expatriates. The work of architect and designer Cherif Morsi, it includes a bar, a private salon, and a lounge restaurant. The ambiance is relaxed and elegant. The crowd picks up around 9 p.m. and can stay until the early morning. La Bodega is especially popular for small group outings. An excellent East Asian fusion cuisine is on offer. Reservations strongly recommended.
157, rue du 26 Juillet, second floor
For culture: El Sawy Culturewheel
This cultural centre was created in 2003 and named for writer and former culture minister Abdel Moneim El-Sawy. The first private, non-governmental cultural centre in Egypt, it hosts international cultural events such as the Cairo Jazz Festival and theatre and film festivals. The eclectic activities include daily concerts, traditional music, and the young Cairo music scene.
1, rue du 26 Juillet, under the Pont du 15 Mai
www.culturewheel.com
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