Paris - Cavistes-bistrots

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Discovering Paris’s cavistes-bistrots

Cavistes-bistrots are taking the French capital by storm. These small restaurants-cum-wine bars, also called caves à manger, are often hidden away; habitués meet there after work or weekend shopping to have snacks and open a bottle of wine. The wine is chosen with care, with the advice of the owner, and is accompanied by cheese, cold cuts, and sometimes a daily meal. Here are our picks for cavistes-bistrots in Paris.

The cavistes-bistrots listed here sell only natural wines. Over the last ten years, natural wines have revolutionized the wine scene in France and throughout the world, by reintroducing traditional winemaking techniques. The grapes are produced by organic, biodynamic agriculture, and most often no sulphur is used. Cavistes-bistrots have played a major role in promoting natural wine in the capital.

Five Paris cavistes-bistrots

Racines

The Racines wine bar is located in one of the most beautiful of Paris’s passages, the Passage des Panoramas, near the Grands Boulevards. A labyrinth of galleries extending from Rue Montmartre to Rue Vivienne past the Théâtre des Variétés, this sky-lit passage delights visitors.

Racines’ former owner brought natural wines to Paris. With its retro “Marchand de vins” sign, Art Nouveau décor, and small group of tables outside the restaurant warmed by the winter sun, this wine bar is a favourite with natural wine lovers. Wine racks stand next to wheels of Saint-Nectaire and small farmhouse-made goat cheeses. Wake up the sleepy passage and sit down for a treat here after a film or a show.

8, passage des Panoramas, Paris 2^e

Le Verre volé

Steps from the Canal Saint-Martin, this wine bar is entirely dedicated to natural wines. Manager Cyril Bordarier has located more than 250 varieties. A dozen tables sit amid shelves stocked with a panoply of reds and whites. Gourmet platters of cold cuts, cheeses, and oysters are served alongside traditional family dishes such as blood pudding or Toulouse sausage. An ideal stop after a walk through the Marais or along the canal.

75, rue de Lancry, Paris 10^e

Le Baron Rouge

The Marché d’Aligre’s wine bar is a convivial neighbourhood place, welcoming locals and market-goers amid its barrels, slates, and zinc counter and out on the sidewalk. The lively market and the lure of fine products keep the guests in good cheer, and often draws them back on Sunday mornings. An excellent spot for a glass of wine while lounging in one of the most attractive markets in Paris.

1, rue Théophile Roussel, Paris 12^e

Le Baratin

In the heart of Belleville, Le Baratin is the preferred hangout for the neighbourhood’s artists and intellectuals. It was also one of the first wine bars in Paris to offer natural wines, in the late 1980s. A tiled mosaic on the floor combines with old black-and-white photos on the walls and a set of bistro seats. Philippe Pinoteau offers more than 200 wines, while Argentinean Raquel Carena prepares comforting regional dishes. On your first visit, sit at the bar, soak up the 30s ambiance, and peruse the wine list on the blackboard. The owner is a true devotee of wine, constantly searching for new tastes for his customers.

3, rue Jouye-Rouve, Paris 20^e

Autour d’un verre

Located in Paris’s new hipster central, this wine bar is known for its relaxed atmosphere. Owner Kevin Blackwell is an American in love with France’s natural wines.

Here, you’ll discover wines from small organic producers that are not exported abroad. The wines are all produced from organic grapes and wild yeast.

The owner’s wife, a Finn, produces sober family dishes using simple, honest ingredients (Morteau sausage, Montbéliard purée, scallops). The bar draws a diverse clientele who freely chat with strangers at their table. An ideal end to a walk down Rue des Martyrs or an evening at the Théâtre Trévise.

21, rue de Trévise, Paris 9^e