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A visit to the souks of Tunis

The great majority of the more than twenty souks of Tunis are grouped around the Great Mosque (Jamaa ez Zitouna), forming a sprawling shopping district that will leave your head spinning. Each souk, made up of one or more narrow covered streets, includes all the craftspeople practising one trade. Come with us and discover the best of the city’s souks.

Originally, only high-class trades such as embroiderers, tailors, perfume sellers, jewellers, and booksellers could set up shop near the Great Mosque, with noisy or dirty trades kept at a distance. It is estimated that in the early 19th century, some 9,000 artisans and 6,000 apprentices worked in the souks’ 5,000 shops (hanout).

The tradition continues today, albeit not on such a grand scale. Each souk houses several workshops, all in the same trade, and each workshop has a boss (arf), artisans (kalfa), and apprentices.

Each souk is named for its specialty, for example, Souk el Trouk (Turkish tailors), el Attarine (perfume sellers), el Koumach (cloth), es Sekkajine (saddles), Ech Chaouachiya (chechias, or traditional Tunisian hats), el Blaghjia (babouches, or Berber slippers), and en Nahas (copper). As the years have gone by, certain souks have become more diverse, and nowadays you can find a little of everything.

Our three favourite souks

Souk el Attarine

Take the time to wander among the bustling boutiques of Souk el Attarine (Parfumiers’ Souk) and be enchanted by the exquisitely subtle mixtures of every kind of scent. This is without question one of the most elegant and alluring souks of the medina. In this ancient souk, dating back to the 13th century, the fine parfumiers behind their magnificent wooden counters will invite you to compare the scents of various essences (rose, orange, lemon, almond, jasmine, amber, musk, etc.) and explain their use in detail. If you desire, the parfumiers will concoct the perfume of your dreams, or simply sell you a replica of your favourite perfume at an unbeatable price.

Souk el Trouk

Souk el Trouk (also called “Souk of the Turks”) is one of the most fascinating of the Tunis medina. Built at the beginning of the 17th century to house Turkish tailors, the souk has diversified since then, and now offers carpets, leather goods, souvenirs, and furniture. The whole length of the street is covered, offering a pleasant atmosphere. However, the main attraction is the superb view from the terraces of certain shops, especially 7 Souk el Trouk, an attractive house, shop, and museum, with a view of the medina, the souks, and the minaret of the Great Mosque in all its splendour.

Souk ech Chaouachiya

Enter Souk ech Chaouachiya (the Souk of Chechias) to watch the exacting handiwork of the craftspeople who make the typical wool felt caps called chechias. Built in the late 17th century in the reign of ¬Mohamed El Hafsi (1675-1684), Souk ech Chaouachiya has played an important role for centuries. The first artisans to do business here came from Andalusia in Spain. As the production of chechias involves several steps, this is where they are completed (finished and conditioned). Chechias from Tunis are considered among the finest in the Arab world; in the 17th century, some 15,000 artisans created nearly a million chechias per year! Nowadays, chechias are worn almost exclusively by older men, and the once flourishing trade may soon die out. All the more reason to visit the souk, most of whose artisans are talented and personable and work in very attractive boutiques.

Notes

We advise not wasting much time in the souks near the Place de la Victoire (Porte de France), at the beginning of Rue Jamaa ez Zitouna and Rue de la Kasbah, as they are terribly touristy and good deals are scarce.

You will also have to do a good deal of bargaining in the Tunis souks, unlike many regions of the country where markups are far smaller.

Excerpt from the Guide Ulysse Tunisie, by Marie-Josée Guy and Yves Séguin