Venice

Home » Destination Guides - Countries » Treasures to discover » Venice

A very Venetian moment: the ombra

Venice is a unique city where fine art and the art of fine living blend together in an otherworldly atmosphere. One unmissable experience of the Venetian way of life is the ombra. This moment of relaxation over a drink takes its name (literally “shade”) from itinerant merchants who turned their canvas parasols to allow Venetians to sip their wine out of the sun. Nowadays, an ombra can be drunk at any hour of the day, but especially at night, in one of the city’s many bacari or bistros. Venetians sit at the counter to enjoy their wine with snacks called cicchetti. Here are our picks for the best places to drink an ombra in Venice.

Osteria Ca’ d’Oro (Alla Vedova)

A short way off the Strada Nuova, the busy main street of Cannaregio, is the Osteria Ca’ d’Oro, nicknamed Alla Vedova (“the widow’s place”) by Venetians. The widow in question is no longer with us, but her family still runs the osteria. Venetians gather here to eat cicchetti and chat. This is the best place for polpette, Venice’s typical meatballs; those who want to linger can order the day’s catch of fish and excellent pasta. Copper pots and large wooden tables give the house a warm, intimate ambiance. One of the neighbourhood’s best known osterie.
Cannaregio 3912, Ramo Ca’ d’Oro

Bottega ai Promessi Sposi

This bottega was recently taken over by the chef at the Osteria Ca’ d’Oro. Sit at the counter and enjoy excellent, classically Venetian cicchetti: hake and polenta, meatballs, little octopuses and cuttlefish, or sardines in saor, as well as boiled sausage and fried zucchini blossoms. The house offers a fine selection of wine. Don’t forget to try their specialty: scie, the lagoon’s well-known slipper lobsters on rocket lettuce with balsamic vinegar. You won’t be disappointed!
Cannaregio 4367, Calle dell’Oca

Un Mundo di Vino

This bacaro is a popular meeting place for Venetian, with more than forty kinds of wine available by the glass. The intimate interior and the low wooden ceilings are inviting to passers-by. The wide selection of cicchetti includes artichokes, codfish, and eggplants Parmesan. In summer, enjoy your ombra outdoors under the awning like a true Venetian.

Cannaregio 5984 A, Salizzada San Canciano

Vino Vino

In the Campo San Moisè, between St. Mark’s Square and the Teatro della Fenice near the Ponte delle Veste, Vino Vino fills up quickly with ombra drinkers. A true paradise of wine, the cellars of this establishment connected to the Antico Martini restaurant offers more than 350 varieties. The traditional cuisine is quite affordable, considering its reputation: octopus salad, marinated sardines, cuttlefish in their ink, and more. The location also has an ideal view of the gondolas on the Canal delle Veste.

San Marco 2007/a, Calle delle Veste

Cantinone Gia Schiavi (Al Bottegon)

On the other side of the Grand Canal, the Cantinone Gia Schiavi, also called Al Bottegon, serves those exploring the Dorsoduro, one of Venice’s largest sestieri. The emphasis is not only on the ombra itself, but on the delicious idleness in which one enjoys it. Run by the Castaldi family for three generations, it is one of the city’s best known osterie. Students, professors, and merchants gather for a glass of wine or a panini. Find a spot near the bridge to drink your prosecco or Venice’s typical sparkling aperitif, spritz.

Dorsoduro 992, Fondamenta Nani